I have maximized the vertical space in my lister so that there is only a single toolbar, and now I have no way to access this mysterious "settings" everyone is talking about. Trying to enable a dark mode theme and I hear you need to access "settings" somehow. I only get "preferences" and "customize". I can't seem to find a button or a keyboard shortcut for it. I can't even find a toolbar where it is listed. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.
Nothing special, just a menu 
I don't have that toolbar as a choice at all. There is one called "menu" but it has only File, FTP, Tools, Lister and some buttons
You removed it from this toolbar.
Make a copy of /buttons\Menu.dop, factory reset it, and you'll have it back.
That did it, thanks.